Sunday, June 29, 2008

抹茶 - Tea Time

I usually take quite a liking to the "cuisine culture" of the places we visit and having been part of a family that has taken time out for tea for as long as I can remember, it seems like an important topic to cover! So, here it is - the "Tradition of Tea" in the land of the rising sun...

Tea first made its way to Japan in 1191 by way of a priest who had returned from a long stay in China. Tea had already been a prized possession in China because of its medicinal properties and ceremonial importance and for those same reasons it was quick to catch on in Japan as well. Still, because it was labor intensive to grow and harvest it remained a luxury for almost the next 1000 years.

As with many agricultural products, the way that tea is grown and harvested has a lot to do with its flavor. The finest teas are still handpicked, though this is becoming increasingly rare. Also, sweeter tasting teas tend to grow in areas with less direct sunlight. Chinese teas are often fermented after harvest, while Japanese teas are usually steamed to prevent them from fermenting and increase the tea's aroma. Japanese tea is harvested four times each year and each season has its own distinct subtleties in flavor and aroma.

When we first saw green tea growing, we had no idea what it was. We were en route to Kyoto and we saw row after row of small mounded bushes lining the hillsides. They looked like some sort of crop, but it wasn't until later when we read about Kyoto being the birthplace of Japanese tea that we realized what we had seen.

Needless to say, Kyoto was also the birthplace of the tea ceremony and recently I've had the opportunity to participate in several tea ceremonies. (one as a student and one as a guest) They are a unique cultural experience that I would highly recommend if you have the chance!

The tea ceremony is a very formal "tea function" where powdered green tea and sweets are ceremonially prepared and served to guests. (Some have a full meal prepared as well) People who host tea ceremonies usually go to school for many years before they are able to host one on their own. Different tea ceremony schools also teach slightly different forms of etiquette and tea service, so the ceremony itself can vary based on the schooling of the host.

Tea practitioners must be knowledgeable in the arts of flower arranging, Japanese calligraphy, pottery, and incense as these things play a crucial aesthetic role in the atmosphere created by the host. The calligraphy and flower arrangement on display in the tatami room (traditional Japanese straw flooring) are usually based on the season and are carefully chosen to fit the occasion. The pottery often has some sort of significance to the host such as a family heirloom or special gift they may have received.
The guests also have an important role to play as they must follow the etiquette of how and when they may eat and drink and when they can and cannot converse with the host and other guests. Guests must also adequately appreciate the art of the host and the food which is served. When receiving tea, the first guest (usually the guest of honor) must thank the host and then ask the permission of the second guest to make sure it is okay for them to take the first cup. He or she will then turn the bowl carefully, so as to not drink from the bowl's front. The "thin tea" should be finished in three sips, the last of which should be a loud slurp so that the host knows he is done and has enjoyed it. (This loud slurp is quite pleasing to the host!) The guest then wipes the lip of the bowl between his thumb and pointer finger and proceeds to wipe his finger on the small square of washi paper that he has tucked into the front of his kimono. (Does this sound stressful yet??? I must admit, that though it was exceedingly interesting I found the whole thing to be quite exhausting!)

After this, he returns the cup to the host so that she can begin the cleaning rituals and prepare the cup of tea for the second guest. This process continues until all the guests have been served. There is very little talking during the entire event, so that guests can take time to relax and enjoy the environment which the host has created for them. Most of the rituals are based on the Zen Buddhism tradition, so that is probably why they seem unusual to the typical Western observer. (though I didn't feel completely comfortable with that, I still found it to be a unique cultural experience that I could appreciate as a part of Japan's heritage)

There are many more "ceremonious" parts of the ceremony, but I will spare you ALL the details for now. Still, the traditions of the tea ceremony are truly a fascinating educational experience! (and a delicious one, too!)

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